Old Dhaka Diaries: Getting Lost in Time, One Biryani at a Time
Bangladesh’s vibrant, raucous, and unyielding metropolis, Dhaka, is more than just a city. It’s a completely immersive sensory experience. Yes, there are some dazzling areas with tall buildings and glassy shopping centers, but after a few twists, you’ll find yourself in Old Dhaka, a completely different world.. A world that doesn’t just remember history—it lives it.
I didn’t plan to get emotional about bricks and biryani. But that’s what happened.
Mayhem, But Make It Beautiful
The moment I got near Sadarghat, it hit me like a slap of sound and smell—in the best way possible. Rickshaw bells rang like they were in competition. CNGs honked like they had something to prove. Street vendors hollered prices like auctioneers on double espresso. The entire area was alive with the energy of an unending festival.
And yet, there was something weirdly comforting about the chaos. Within minutes, I was shoulder-to-shoulder with strangers, weaving through traffic that looked like a disaster but flowed like a perfectly choreographed dance.
Tea stalls popped up at every turn, with guys debating cricket like it was life or death. Laundry fluttered above my head like party streamers. And I realized: this wasn’t a mess. It was a masterpiece in motion.
Lalbagh Fort & Ahsan Manzil: Time Machines in Disguise
My first real pause happened at Lalbagh Fort. The moment I stepped inside, the city noise faded into a hum. Suddenly, I was in the middle of Mughal-era poetry—red-brick walls, wide lawns, and a silence that felt almost sacred. I sat under a tree, letting the quiet wrap around me. It felt like history itself was breathing beside me.
Then came Ahsan Manzil—that pink palace we all saw in textbooks. In person? It’s bigger than just architecture. The corridors whispered stories, and old photos inside stared back like they knew I’d be coming. Standing on the balcony, I looked out at the Buriganga River, imagining Nawabs doing the same centuries ago.
It wasn’t just sight-seeing. It felt like stepping into someone else’s memory.
Let’s Talk About the Food (Because OMG)
If you go to Old Dhaka and don’t eat biryani, did you even go?
I started my edible adventure at Haji Biriyani. Honestly, the aroma reached me before the signboard did. One bite and boom—I was in love. It was more than food. It was a soul-hug in rice form.
Next, I gave Nanna Biriyani a shot (because research is important, right?). And just like that, I was in the middle of Dhaka’s oldest debate: Which biryani reigns supreme? I’m not choosing sides. Just… try both. Trust your belly.
But the true comfort dish? Star Kabab’s morog polao. It made me nostalgic for a childhood that maybe wasn’t even mine. Add a plate of street-side fuchka—those crispy, tangy little flavor bombs—and I was officially useless for anything but eating and grinning like a fool.
Getting Lost—On Purpose
Somewhere between food and forts, I wandered into Shankhari Bazar, not knowing what I was looking for. That’s when the real magic began.
Tiny shops crammed with color. Bangles, saris, incense, handmade treasures I didn’t need but suddenly couldn’t live without. One shopkeeper showed me how he shaped conch bangles by hand, talking to me like I was a neighbor, not a stranger.
A few alleys later, I stumbled into Tanti Bazar. Fabrics tumbled from every shelf like waterfalls of color. I ended up buying a nakshi kantha, because honestly? It felt like I was wrapping myself in someone’s story.
Buriganga: A Goodbye I Wasn’t Ready For
As the sun started dipping, I made my way back to Sadarghat. The chaos was still there, but now it felt like a lullaby.
I hopped onto a wooden boat. No destination—just a gentle float. The call to prayer echoed across the water, mixing with the creak of oars and the soft splash of river. For a few minutes, everything stilled. No horns. No rush.
Just air, water, and the feeling that I’d found something I didn’t know I was looking for.
Leaving, But Not Really
When I left Old Dhaka, I wasn’t ready. I don’t think anyone ever is. In just a short visit, this place had wrapped itself around me—loud, messy, unapologetic, and full of soul.
The alleys felt like they had secrets. The food felt like home. The people—welcoming, curious, kind—felt like friends I hadn’t met yet.
Old Dhaka doesn’t try to impress. It doesn’t tidy up for guests. It just exists, honestly and wildly. And that’s what makes it unforgettable.
So if you’re ever in Dhaka, don’t just scratch the surface. Dive deep. Get lost. Get full. Let the noise get into your bones. Because somewhere in those chaotic streets and crumbling walls—you might just find a piece of yourself you didn’t know was missing.
1 Comment-
Dignissim senectus viamus mattis dis, iaculis eros nibh aenean tincidunt quam proin interdum tempor lacus viverra lacinia eleifend.